Sewing Machine Stitch Types Explained: Every Stitch, Every Use, Every Fabric

Every sewing machine stitch exists for a reason. Whether you’re reinforcing a stress point, finishing a raw edge, sewing an invisible hem, or embroidering a monogram — there is a stitch engineered precisely for that job. The problem? Most sewists use only two or three stitches out of the thirty, sixty, or even 300-plus stitches their machine offers. This guide changes that forever.

Understanding sewing machine stitch types isn’t just about knowing their names. It’s about understanding the mechanics behind each stitch, recognizing the fabric conditions that call for one stitch over another, and knowing how to dial in your length and width settings so every seam comes out perfect. Whether you’re learning how to use a sewing machine for the very first time or you’re an experienced sewist who wants to unlock your machine’s hidden potential, this reference guide will transform the way you sew.

We’re covering everything from the humble straight stitch — the bedrock of all garment construction — through zigzag and stretch stitches for knit fabrics, decorative stitches for heirloom work, and the specialized stitches found only on computerized sewing machines. We’ll also show you exactly how each stitch looks, how it’s formed, and what can go wrong when your settings are off.

Sit down, grab your seam ripper (you won’t need it after this), and let’s get into every stitch your sewing machine has to offer.

01 — How Sewing Machine Stitches Are Formed

Before we catalog every stitch type, it pays enormous dividends to understand how a stitch is actually made. Stitches on a sewing machine don’t work the way hand stitches do. There is no simple needle-passes-through-fabric-and-pulls-thread motion happening. The mechanics are far more elegant — and more fragile — than most sewists realize.

The Lockstitch Principle

The vast majority of home sewing machine stitches are lockstitches. A lockstitch uses two threads: the needle thread (which comes from the spool on top) and the bobbin thread (which lives in the bobbin case underneath the needle plate). Here’s what happens in a fraction of a second during each stitch:

1. The needle pierces the fabric and carries the needle thread downward.
2. As the needle rises back up, a small loop of thread is left behind below the fabric.
3. The rotating hook in the bobbin assembly catches that loop.
4. The hook pulls the needle thread loop around the bobbin thread.
5. Both threads are pulled up and locked together inside the fabric layers — creating the characteristic locked stitch that can’t be pulled apart from either side.

This locking action is what makes machine stitches so durable. Unlike a hand stitch where only one thread is doing all the work, a lockstitch creates a symmetric, interlocked structure. This is also why proper thread tension is so critical — if the bobbin tension and needle tension are not balanced, the lock point migrates to one side and you see loops on either the top or bottom of your fabric. For more on this, see our guide on thread nesting under fabric and how to fix it.

The Role of Stitch Length and Width

Every stitch on your machine is ultimately a variation of these two parameters — plus the pattern in which the needle moves:

• Stitch length controls how far the feed dogs advance the fabric between each needle penetration. A longer stitch means more fabric travels between each needle strike; a shorter stitch means the needle hits fabric more frequently per inch.
• Stitch width controls how far the needle swings left and right (only applicable for stitches with lateral movement). A wider setting creates a wider zigzag or decorative pattern.

Our dedicated article on stitch width vs. length goes deep on this topic, but we’ll reference specific ideal settings throughout this guide for each stitch type.

Stitch Count: What Does It Really Mean?

When machine manufacturers say a model has “300 stitches” or “800 built-in stitches,” most of those numbers represent variations of a smaller number of fundamental stitch types. The same zigzag stitch with a width of 2 vs. a width of 5 might be counted separately. The same decorative pattern in mirror image counts as two stitches. The core stitch families are far more limited — and that’s what this guide teaches you: the families, not the variations.

02 — The Straight Stitch: Workhorse of the Sewing World

If sewing machine stitches were a solar system, the straight stitch would be the sun — everything else orbits around it. It is the most fundamental, most used, and most versatile stitch on any sewing machine. Understanding its nuances will make every other stitch easier to master.

What Is the Straight Stitch?

The straight stitch is exactly what it sounds like: the needle moves up and down in a single vertical line, creating a row of evenly spaced lockstitch points in a straight path. There is no lateral needle movement. The only variable you control is the stitch length.

Straight Stitch Length Settings: A Practical Breakdown

Variations of the Straight Stitch

While the basic straight stitch is simple, several important variations build upon it:

Straight Stitch: When It’s Right and When It’s Not

If you’re experiencing problems with your straight stitch — skipped stitches, uneven tension, thread nesting — these are among the most common machine issues. Our comprehensive sewing machine troubleshooting guide covers all of these causes and solutions in exhaustive detail.

03 — The Zigzag Stitch: Versatility Champion

If the straight stitch is the sun, the zigzag is the moon — essential, always present, and governing an enormous range of sewing functions. The zigzag stitch is the second most important stitch on any machine and the gateway to every other stitch that involves lateral needle movement.

How the Zigzag Stitch Works

Unlike the straight stitch, the zigzag stitch’s needle moves laterally as well as vertically. The needle strikes the fabric at the right, then moves to the left for the next stitch, then back to the right, creating the characteristic V-pattern. This lateral movement is what gives zigzag stitches their key properties: stretch, width, and seam finishing ability.

Zigzag Width and Length Settings

The zigzag stitch has two independently adjustable parameters:

• Width (0–7mm typically): Controls how far the needle swings left to right. A wider zigzag stretches more and covers more area — ideal for seam finishing. A narrow zigzag has less stretch but is less visible.
• Length: Controls the density. A very short length with wide width creates a dense satin stitch (virtually no fabric visible between stitches). Longer length is more open, more flexible.

Top Uses for the Zigzag Stitch

1. Seam Finishing

One of the most common uses for zigzag is finishing raw seam allowances on woven fabrics to prevent fraying. Run a zigzag stitch along the edge of each seam allowance individually (after seaming) or together (before seaming, serger-style). A width of 3–4mm with length 2.5mm is typical. For a deeper discussion of seam allowances and why finishing matters, see our complete guide to seam allowance.

2. Sewing Knit and Stretch Fabrics

Woven fabrics are dimensionally stable — they don’t stretch much. Knit fabrics are the opposite, and a standard straight stitch will simply snap at the seam when the fabric is worn or washed. A zigzag stitch, by contrast, has inherent stretch because of its V-shape. A narrow zigzag (width 1.5, length 2.5) is often sufficient for moderate knit stretch. For high-stretch fabrics like activewear, you’ll want to move to a dedicated stretch stitch (covered in the next section).

3. Appliqué

Attaching fabric shapes to a background fabric using a tight zigzag (near-satin stitch) encases and protects the raw edge of the appliqué piece while also visually defining the design. This is one of the most satisfying uses of the zigzag stitch in decorative sewing.

4. Attaching Elastic

A wide zigzag stitch (4–5mm) is the standard method for stitching elastic directly to fabric. The zigzag must stretch with the elastic, and a wide setting ensures the stitch has enough lateral movement to accommodate the elastic’s contraction without snapping. Alternatively, many sewists use a three-step zigzag for this purpose (covered below).

5. Reinforcing Stress Points

A short, wide zigzag placed over a previous straight stitch at a stress point (like the base of a pocket or a belt loop) creates a very strong, redundant reinforcement. Often called a “tack” stitch when extremely short in length.

04 — Stretch Stitches: Sewing Knits and Performance Fabrics

Stretch stitches are the specialized family of stitches designed specifically for knit fabrics, jerseys, spandex blends, swimwear, and activewear. They go beyond what a simple zigzag can offer, building in dramatic stretch capacity while still maintaining a clean, professional appearance. If you sew garments made from anything that stretches, this section is critical.

The Lightning Stitch (Triple Straight Stitch)

Sometimes called the stretch straight stitch or triple stitch, this stitch sews forward three needle penetrations, then backward one, then forward three again — effectively tripling the number of thread connections per inch. The result is a stitch that has dramatically more stretch than a single straight stitch and is extremely strong. It’s visible as a slightly textured straight line.

Best uses: Stress points on knit garments (necklines, armscyes, crotch seams), hems on jeans and denim, reinforcing bag seams. See our deep dive on which machine handles heavy-duty denim best.

The Three-Step Zigzag (Multi-Stitch Zigzag)

This is the zigzag stitch’s more sophisticated sibling. Instead of a single needle penetration at each left and right point, the machine makes three small stitches as it moves across to each side before returning. This produces a stitch that looks like a gentle “W” when viewed closely, and it distributes the stretch force across a wider area without concentrating stress at any single thread junction.

Best uses: Attaching elastic directly to fabric, elastic casings that need maximum stretch retention, swimwear, athletic waistbands, bra straps.

The Overlock Stitch (On Non-Serger Machines)

Many mid-range sewing machines include a simulated overlock stitch — a combination stitch that simultaneously sews the seam AND finishes the edge in one pass. It usually looks like a zigzag alongside a straight stitch, mimicking the two-thread chain of a real serger. It’s not as clean as true serger overlocking, but it’s a practical option when a serger isn’t available. For true overlock results, you’ll want a dedicated serger machine.

The Stretch Blind Hem Stitch

A specialized stitch for hemming knit fabrics invisibly. It consists of several straight stitches (or sometimes small zigzags) followed by one stitch that swings wide to catch just a thread or two of the folded fabric — creating a nearly invisible hem from the right side. Proper technique requires a specific presser foot and careful fabric alignment. This stitch is one of the least-practiced but highest-impact stitches in garment sewing.

The Honeycomb Stitch

A heavily built-in stretch stitch found on more advanced machines. It creates an interlocking hexagonal pattern that allows even greater lateral and longitudinal stretch than a standard zigzag. It’s particularly popular for swimwear and lingerie construction where maximum stretch retention is required.

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05 — Utility Stitches: The Unsung Workhorses

Utility stitches are the stitches that solve specific, practical sewing problems. They’re not glamorous. They don’t appear in embroidery showcases. But they are the stitches that hold bags together under heavy load, attach zippers professionally, reinforce the hem of a pair of jeans through a thousand wash cycles, and allow you to sew through five layers of thick denim without skipped stitches.

The Blind Hem Stitch

This is perhaps the most valuable utility stitch for garment sewists, and the most misunderstood. The blind hem stitch alternates several straight stitches with one zigzag or swing stitch. When executed correctly with a blind hem foot, the zigzag stitch catches only a few threads from the folded hem allowance — making the stitching virtually invisible from the right side of the garment.

Stitch settings for blind hem: Width 1.5–2.5mm, length 2.0–2.5mm. Always use a dedicated blind hem presser foot. Test on a scrap before committing to the garment hem.

The Overcasting Stitch

Not to be confused with an overlock stitch, the overcasting stitch is a single-needle stitch designed to wrap over the edge of fabric, simulating the look of hand overcasting. It creates a wave or blanket-stitch pattern along the raw edge. Less effective than a serger overlock, but useful when you need edge finishing without trimming width.

The Honeycomb Stitch (Utility Version)

This is different from the decorative honeycomb stitch. The utility honeycomb creates an extremely stretchy, strong seam ideal for waistbands and areas that need to stretch and recover. It looks like a series of interlocking rectangles and is found on higher-end machines.

The Vari-Overlock Stitch

A multi-purpose stitch that combines elements of a zigzag and an overcast stitch. It sews a seam and finishes the edge simultaneously, similar to a serger, but with a single needle. Best used on medium-weight wovens where you want to combine steps for efficiency.

The Elastic Straight Stitch (Stretch Stitch)

Designed specifically for attaching pre-stretched elastic or for sewing onto highly elastic materials like spandex. Some machines label this as “elastic stitch” explicitly. It functions similar to the triple straight stitch but is calibrated for maximum elastic accommodation.

06 — Seam Finishing Stitches: Keeping Fraying Under Control

In sewing, a seam is only as professional as its finish. Raw, fraying seam allowances inside a garment are the mark of a rushed project. They also weaken the seam over time as the fraying progresses toward the stitching line. Seam finishing stitches solve this problem — and there are more options than most sewists realize.

If you’ve ever wondered why your sewing machine isn’t sewing clean seam finishes, the issue is often a combination of needle condition and stitch selection. Let’s cover the main options.

Method 1: Zigzag Seam Finish

The most widely used seam finish on home machines. Run a medium zigzag (width 3mm, length 2.5mm) along each raw edge of the seam allowance. Works on most fabrics but can add bulk on heavy materials and may tunnel on lightweight silks.

Method 2: Overcast / Overlocking Stitch

A specialized overcasting stitch built into most modern sewing machines loops thread over the cut edge, imitating a serger. Uses a specific overcasting presser foot with a wire guide that prevents the fabric edge from tunneling as the stitch is applied. Far cleaner result than a raw zigzag on the edge — particularly on medium knits and stretch fabrics.

Method 3: Pink-and-Stitch

Cut seam allowances with pinking shears (the zigzag-edged scissors) and run a straight stitch 3mm from the edge. The pinking prevents fraying on tightly woven fabrics with minimal fraying tendency. Not effective on loosely woven fabrics like linen or canvas. We recommend using quality sewing scissors for precision cutting before finishing.

Method 4: French Seam

This is a construction technique rather than a machine stitch, but it’s worth noting: a French seam encases the raw edges completely within the seam itself, leaving no raw edges visible from either side. Used on sheer and delicate fabrics where an internal seam allowance would shadow through. Requires no special stitch — just precise straight stitching in two passes.

Method 5: Flat-Felled Seam

Another construction technique producing a flat seam with two rows of topstitching on the right side — think the side seams of jeans. Extremely strong and fully encases raw edges. Requires careful pressing and topstitching precision.

07 — Buttonhole Stitches, Bar Tacks, and Eyelet Stitches

These are the stitches that deal with fastening hardware and stress points. Getting them right is what separates a handmade garment that looks craft-store from one that looks boutique.

The Buttonhole Stitch

A buttonhole is formed from four components sewn in sequence:

1. Left column: A dense satin stitch (tight zigzag) running the length of the buttonhole on the left side.
2. Top bartack: A wide, short satin stitch closing the top of the buttonhole.
3. Right column: A dense satin stitch running back down the right side.
4. Bottom bartack: A wide, short satin stitch closing the bottom of the buttonhole.

Buttonhole Types on Modern Machines

Struggling with buttonholes? Our dedicated guide on how to sew a buttonhole without a buttonhole foot covers alternative methods when your foot is missing or your automatic buttonhole isn’t cooperating.

The Bar Tack Stitch

A bar tack is a very tight, very short satin stitch — essentially a tiny rectangle of dense zigzag stitching. It’s used to reinforce the ends of stress points: the top and bottom of pocket openings, the corners of belt loops, the end of zippers, and the crotch point of trousers. On most machines, you create a bar tack manually by setting width to 4–5mm and length to 0.3–0.5mm, then sewing 8–12 stitches in place. Some machines have a dedicated bar tack stitch.

The Eyelet Stitch

Found on computerized machines, the eyelet stitch creates a small round hole surrounded by tight satin stitching — used for decorative corset-style lacing, ventilation holes in hats and bags, or decorative dot patterns. A specialized eyelet foot and small hole punch are needed before stitching.

08 — Quilting Stitches: Precision, Pattern, and Performance

Quilting is one of the most technically demanding and most rewarding applications of the sewing machine. The stitches involved range from basic straight stitching (for block assembly) to complex free-motion patterns (for quilting the sandwich together). Understanding quilting-specific stitches and settings is fundamental for anyone who works with fabric layers, batting, and backing.

For more specialized information on quilting tools and setup, browse our dedicated resources on best quilting rulers, best batting for quilting, and best quilting cutting mats.

Straight-Line Quilting (Walking Foot Quilting)

The most fundamental quilting stitch is simply a straight stitch, but applied through three layers (top, batting, backing) rather than two. The key technical challenge is that three layers of fabric plus batting move differently under the presser foot — the bottom layers travel faster than the top, causing puckering unless a walking foot (even feed foot) is used.

Settings for straight-line quilting: Length 3.0–3.5mm (longer stitch length is traditional in quilting, showing well through all layers), walking foot, needle appropriate to the batting weight (usually a 75/11 or 80/12 quilting needle with a slightly tapered point).

Quilting Stitch Patterns

Free-Motion Quilting: Dropping the Feed Dogs

Free-motion quilting is a category of quilting where the feed dogs are lowered (or covered), removing automatic fabric advance from the equation. You now control the direction AND the speed at which fabric moves under the needle by moving the quilt sandwich with your hands. The result can be any line, curve, or shape you can draw — it’s essentially drawing with a sewing machine needle and thread.

Free-motion quilting requires a darning or free-motion presser foot (a small open-toe foot with a spring mechanism), a machine that can drop its feed dogs, and considerable practice. The relationship between machine speed and hand movement determines stitch length — consistent, even stitches require you to move your hands and run the machine at coordinated speeds. For machine-specific guidance on feed dog features, see our article on what is a feed dog on a sewing machine.

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09 — Decorative Stitches: Turning Function Into Art

Every sewing machine — even entry-level models — includes at least a handful of decorative stitches alongside the utility ones. Mid-range machines offer 60–150. High-end and computerized machines can include several hundred. Decorative stitches transform plain fabric into decorated surface without any additional tools or materials beyond thread.

Understanding what these stitches are — and when to actually use them — is something most sewists never figure out. Let’s change that.

Types of Decorative Stitches by Category

How to Get the Most from Decorative Stitches

The biggest mistake sewists make with decorative stitches is using them on the wrong stabilizer setup. Decorative stitches — especially wide satin stitch patterns — pull on the fabric significantly as the dense thread passes through. Without adequate support, the fabric tunnels (bunches under the stitch line) and the pattern distorts.

Thread Choices for Decorative Stitching

Standard sewing thread works for decorative stitches, but for maximum visual impact:

• 40-weight rayon thread produces a high-sheen, silky finish ideal for satin stitch patterns.
• 40-weight polyester embroidery thread is similar to rayon but more colorfast and washfast — preferred for garments that will be laundered.
• 12-weight cotton thread creates a thick, bold stitch line with a matte, artisanal quality — beautiful for visible mending and folk art decoration.
• Variegated thread (multiple colors in a single thread) creates a color-shifting effect as the stitch progresses — very effective for long decorative borders.

See our full breakdown of polyester thread vs. cotton thread for guidance on which fiber performs best in your machine’s tension system. You can also check whether embroidery thread can be used for regular sewing projects.

10 — Machine Embroidery Stitches: From Monograms to Full Designs

Machine embroidery stitches are fundamentally different from all the stitches we’ve covered so far. They’re not sewn freehand — they’re executed by the machine following a pre-programmed digital design file, with the fabric held in a hoop that moves automatically in X and Y axes while the needle stitches. The result is high-resolution, commercially-accurate embroidery produced at home.

If you’re interested in exploring machine embroidery, our comparison guides on Brother PE800 vs SE1900 for embroidery workflow and the SE600 vs SE1900 hoop size analysis are excellent starting points for machine selection.

The Four Core Machine Embroidery Stitch Types

1. Satin Stitch (Column Stitch)

The most fundamental embroidery stitch — a dense series of zigzag stitches placed side by side, completely covering a defined column of fabric with solid thread. Satin stitch creates the smooth, shiny filled areas you see in lettering and simple motifs. It works best for shapes up to about 12mm wide; wider shapes need padding (additional underlay passes) to prevent sagging.

2. Fill Stitch (Tatami / Run Stitch Fill)

For large areas too wide for satin stitch, embroidery designs use fill stitches — rows of running stitches layered at different angles to build up a solid, matte-textured area. The angle changes between layers create a woven appearance and prevent the fill from looking directionally shiny. Fill stitches can cover very large areas efficiently.

3. Running Stitch (Outline Stitch)

The embroidery machine’s straight stitch equivalent — a single line of stitching used to create outlines, fine detail, lettering details, and underlay for other stitch types. In embroidery digitizing, a running stitch outline often appears first to stabilize the fabric before the denser satin and fill stitches are applied.

4. Bean Stitch (Triple Run)

Three passes of a running stitch in a forward-backward-forward sequence, creating a bold, thick outline stitch. Used where a single running stitch outline would look too thin or delicate — particularly in appliqué outlines and bold graphic designs.

Understanding Density in Embroidery

Stitch density (expressed as the distance between parallel stitch passes in millimeters) determines whether your embroidery looks full and rich or sparse and washed-out. Higher density means more thread per area — beautiful but can cause fabric distortion and needle breakage if too extreme. Lower density is lighter but may show the base fabric through the stitches.

✦ Best Dedicated Embroidery Machine

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11 — Stitch Settings Deep Dive: Tension, Length, Width, and Speed

Knowing which stitch to select is only half the equation. The other half is setting it up correctly. Even the right stitch type will produce poor results if your tension is off, your length is wrong for your fabric weight, or your machine is running at the wrong speed for your fabric type. This section is your complete settings reference guide.

For a companion reference, our article on sewing machine features: dial and button breakdown explains every dial and button on your machine.

Thread Tension: The Most Misunderstood Setting

Thread tension controls how tightly the thread is pulled through the fabric as each stitch is formed. Most home sewing machines have a single tension dial (often numbered 0–9) that controls the upper thread (needle thread) tension. The bobbin tension is usually preset and not user-adjustable on most home machines.

The goal of proper tension: the lock point (where upper and lower thread meet) should be exactly in the middle of the fabric — not visible on either the top or bottom surface. Here’s how to read your stitch quality to diagnose tension problems:

Stitch Length Reference Chart (All Fabric Categories)

Machine Speed and Stitch Quality

Most home sewists either run their machine at maximum speed all the time, or use a timid, stop-start crawl that produces uneven stitching. Neither is ideal. Stitch quality is most consistent at a medium, steady machine speed — fast enough to keep the feed dogs engaged and the stitch formation regular, but not so fast you lose control of direction.

Speed is particularly important when:

• Sewing curves — slow down by 30–50% for control
• Sewing thick seam intersections — slow nearly to a stop for the crossing point, then resume
• Sewing very delicate fabrics — a slower speed generates less heat from needle friction
• Sewing free-motion quilting — your hand movement speed must match machine speed for consistent stitch length

If your machine is jamming consistently, speed is rarely the cause — but jamming causes and solutions are worth investigating. Similarly, if you’re experiencing ongoing thread or needle issues, our full resource on sewing machine needle problems will cover the root cause.

12 — Stitch Selection by Fabric Type: The Complete Reference

The best stitch for any given project is always determined by your fabric first, your project function second, and aesthetic preferences third. Choosing stitches in any other order leads to frustration. Here’s your comprehensive reference matrix for matching stitch type to fabric category.

Woven Fabrics (Non-Stretch)

Woven fabrics (cotton, linen, silk, wool, denim, canvas) are dimensionally stable — they don’t stretch significantly in the lengthwise or crosswise direction (though they can stretch on the bias). For woven fabrics, the straight stitch is almost always the primary seaming stitch. Seam finishing depends on the fabric’s tendency to fray and the desired finish level.

Knit Fabrics (Stretch)

Knit fabrics stretch in at least one direction (typically widthwise). The single most important rule: every seam in a knit garment must stretch. This rules out straight stitch for the primary seam on most knit projects.

Specialty Fabrics

13 — Stitch Troubleshooting: When Your Stitches Go Wrong

Even with the right stitch selected and proper settings dialed in, things go wrong. Stitches skip. Thread breaks. Seams pucker. The fabric bunches. These problems are rarely caused by the machine itself — they’re almost always a threading, needle, thread, or settings issue that you can diagnose and fix in minutes.

Before we dive in: for a comprehensive troubleshooting reference that goes far beyond stitching, see our complete sewing machine troubleshooting guide. Here we’ll focus specifically on stitch quality problems.

The First Rule of Stitch Troubleshooting

Before you adjust anything — tension, length, width — do these three things first:

1. Change the needle. A new needle costs pennies and solves more sewing problems than any other single action. Needles should be changed every 8–10 hours of sewing or when you start a new project. A bent or dull needle causes skipped stitches, fabric snags, and thread breakage. Read our complete guide to sewing machine needle sizes to make sure you’re using the right one.
2. Rethread completely. Remove all thread and start from scratch. Make sure the presser foot is raised while threading the upper thread. Thread the bobbin correctly and ensure it’s seated properly in the case.
3. Clean the bobbin area. Lint and thread fragments in the bobbin case are the root cause of a remarkable number of tension and jamming problems. Our guide on sewing machine oil and cleaning covers how to properly maintain your machine.

Stitch-Specific Problem Solutions

For problems specific to Brother machines — including the E6 error that signals a thread jam — our dedicated resource on Brother E6 error thread jam clearance walks you through every step. And if your machine problem is more general, start with our sewing machine setup checklist to make sure you haven’t missed a fundamental step.

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Bonus — Coverstitch, Chainstitch, and Serger Stitches

Beyond the standard home sewing machine, there are two other machine types that produce specific stitch families worth knowing: the coverstitch machine and the chainstitch (found on sergers with that capability). These are technically separate machines but so common in sewing rooms that a stitch guide would be incomplete without covering them.

The Coverstitch

The coverstitch is the stitch that finishes t-shirt and activewear hems on ready-to-wear clothing. It looks like two (or three) parallel rows of topstitching on the right side, with a wide looper stitch on the wrong side that covers the raw edge entirely. It requires a dedicated coverstitch machine (not a serger, not a standard machine — though some combo machines do both).

A coverstitch is the benchmark for knit hem finishing. If you sew t-shirts, leggings, or activewear frequently and want that professional factory look, a coverstitch machine is the single most impactful equipment upgrade after a basic sewing machine.

The Chainstitch

A chainstitch uses only the needle thread (no bobbin), forming a loop-through-loop chain on the underside of the fabric. It looks like a standard straight stitch from the top, but on the underside creates a distinctive linked chain. The advantage: chainstitching is fast and allows fabric to stretch slightly along the stitch length. The disadvantage: pull one end and the whole seam unravels like a zipper (which is actually how some industrial seams are designed — quick disassembly for pattern grading).

Most home sewists will never need a dedicated chainstitch, but some combination serger-chainstitch machines do offer this option for industrial-look topstitching on denim.

Serger Stitch Combinations

A serger can produce multiple stitch configurations depending on how many threads are engaged:

Frequently Asked Questions — Sewing Machine Stitch Types

• What is the most important stitch to know on a sewing machine? +

  The straight stitch is the single most important stitch to master on any sewing machine. It is used in virtually every sewing project for seaming, topstitching, basting, and structural reinforcement. Every other stitch type is built upon or branches away from the principles established by the straight stitch. If you can sew a consistent, well-tensioned straight stitch, you can learn any other stitch on your machine.

• What stitch should I use for stretchy or knit fabric? +

  Never use a standard straight stitch as the sole stitch on knit or stretch fabric seams — it will pop and break when the garment is worn. For lightweight knits, a narrow zigzag (width 1.5mm, length 2.5mm) or the lightning/triple straight stitch offers sufficient stretch. For medium to high-stretch knits, use a dedicated stretch stitch or a three-step zigzag. For maximum-stretch fabrics like Lycra and swimwear, the three-step zigzag with a wide setting (width 5mm) or a serger with a 4-thread overlock provides the best results. A stretch needle (ballpoint) is also essential — it slides between the knit loops rather than piercing and breaking them.

• What stitch length should I use for sewing cotton? +

  For quilting cotton and standard cotton wovens, a stitch length of 2.2–2.5mm is the standard recommendation for construction seams. This creates a seam strong enough to withstand wear and laundering without perforating the fabric too densely. For topstitching on cotton, increase to 3.0–3.5mm for a more traditional, visible look. For basting or gathering cotton, use the maximum stitch length (4.0–6.0mm) and reduce tension slightly for easy removal.

• What is the difference between a zigzag stitch and a stretch stitch? +

  A zigzag stitch is a basic two-point lateral stitch that alternates left and right in a V-pattern. It has some inherent stretch but is a general-purpose stitch used for seam finishing, light knit work, and decorative purposes. A stretch stitch is a specialized stitch family designed specifically for stretch fabrics — examples include the triple straight stitch (lightning stitch), the three-step zigzag, and the honeycomb stitch. Stretch stitches build in far more stretch capacity per inch of seam than a standard zigzag, and they distribute the stress of stretching across more thread connections, making them significantly stronger for knit and activewear applications.

• Why does my sewing machine skip stitches? +

  Skipped stitches are almost always caused by one of four things: (1) The needle is bent, blunt, or the wrong type for your fabric — change the needle first; (2) The needle is inserted incorrectly — it should be pushed all the way up into the clamp with the flat side facing the back; (3) The upper thread is not properly seated in all thread guides — rethread from scratch with the presser foot raised; (4) The needle and bobbin thread are not synchronized — this can indicate a timing issue requiring a technician if all other causes are eliminated. For knit fabrics specifically, skipped stitches typically indicate you’re using a universal needle instead of a stretch/ballpoint needle.

• What stitch is best for sewing denim? +

  For denim construction seams, use a straight stitch at 3.0–4.0mm length depending on fabric weight (heavier denim = longer stitch). Use a 90/14 or 100/16 jeans needle (which has a sharp, reinforced point specifically designed to pierce tightly woven denim). For topstitching, increase stitch length to 3.5–4.0mm and consider topstitching thread (heavier weight) for the authentic jeans look. At thick seam intersections (like jeans inseams), slow to nearly a stop and use the hand wheel to ease the needle through — or use a hump jumper to prevent skipping. For a detailed machine comparison on denim performance, see our piece on Singer vs Brother heavy-duty denim torque.

• How do I sew an invisible hem on a sewing machine? +

  An invisible (blind) hem on a sewing machine requires three things: the blind hem stitch setting on your machine, a blind hem presser foot, and careful fabric preparation. Fold the hem allowance to the wrong side and press. Then fold the hem back on itself so the fold of the garment fabric is exposed slightly. Place the fabric under the blind hem foot so the guide runs along the folded edge, and sew with the blind hem stitch — the swing stitch will catch just a few threads from the fold. From the right side, only tiny thread dots are visible. Practice on scrap fabric before the actual garment, and adjust the needle position to the left to minimize visibility of the catch stitch.

• Can I sew leather on a regular sewing machine? +

  Yes, genuine and faux leather can be sewn on a regular home sewing machine with the right setup. Use a leather needle (which has a wedge-shaped cutting point rather than a round point), a Teflon presser foot (leather sticks to standard metal feet), and a stitch length of 3.5–4.0mm (short stitches perforate the leather and weaken it). Never use pins — they leave permanent holes; use sewing clips or binder clips instead. Because leather seams don’t ravel, no seam finishing is needed — simply trim and topstitch to hold seam allowances flat. For very thick leather or multiple layers, a walking foot helps prevent slippage.

• What is a basting stitch and when should I use it? +

  A basting stitch is a long, temporary straight stitch (4.0–6.0mm length) sewn with reduced tension so it can be easily removed after permanent stitching is in place. It’s used to temporarily hold fabric pieces together before final stitching — particularly useful for fitting garments before committing to a permanent seam, for holding multiple layers in alignment while you sew over them, and for gathering (running a long basting stitch and then pulling the bobbin thread to gather the fabric into ruffles). Always sew basting in a contrasting thread color so it’s easy to identify and remove. Learn more in our dedicated guide on what is a basting stitch.

• How many stitches does a good beginner sewing machine need? +

  For a beginner, you genuinely need fewer than a dozen stitches to handle 95% of sewing projects: a straight stitch (with adjustable length), a zigzag stitch (with adjustable width and length), a stretch stitch (or three-step zigzag), a buttonhole stitch, a blind hem stitch, and a few decorative options. A machine with 20–30 stitches is more than sufficient for learning and intermediate work. The machine’s build quality, motor, and feed dog performance matter far more than stitch count. Our sewing machine buying guide explains exactly what to prioritize for different experience levels.

• Why do my decorative stitches look puckered or tunneled? +

  Tunneling (the fabric pulling up under the stitch line) is the most common decorative stitch problem. It occurs because dense stitches create significant thread tension that pulls the fabric lengthwise. The fix is stabilization: place a piece of tear-away stabilizer (for wovens) or cut-away stabilizer (for knits and stretchy fabrics) underneath the fabric area you’re stitching. For very lightweight fabrics, add a layer of water-soluble stabilizer on top as well. Additionally, reduce your upper tension by 0.5–1 step below normal, and use an open-toe or embroidery presser foot that allows you to see the stitch placement clearly. These three adjustments — stabilizer, tension, and presser foot — solve tunneling in the vast majority of cases.

• What is a coverstitch and do I need a special machine for it? +

  A coverstitch is the stitch used on the hems of almost every commercially made t-shirt, legging, and knit garment — it produces two or three parallel rows of topstitching on the right side, and a wide looping stitch that covers the raw hem edge on the wrong side. This stitch has excellent stretch retention and a very professional appearance. To produce a true coverstitch, you need a dedicated coverstitch machine (not a standard sewing machine and not a serger, though some combination machines can do both). A twin needle on a standard machine can simulate the look on the right side but does not produce the same stretch as a coverstitch, and the wrong side looks completely different. If you sew knit garments regularly, a coverstitch machine is one of the most valuable equipment investments you can make.